My Pilgrimage: June 6

Let me start by saying I could fill this blog with frustrations concerning driving in a caravan in Israel.  Instead, I will try to focus on the positives.

Today our focus was on Capernaum and then the other side of the Jordan River.  Capernaum was, of course, the center of Jesus’ ministry and the home of Peter.  The main attraction is the house of Peter, where Jesus would have lived.  It is impossible to know for sure which is his, but the church there is built directly over one that is traditionally known as Peter’s house.  The church itself has a bad reputation as a UFO, but I have to admit it was not as bad as I had been told.  I understand the architecture as centering on the center of Jesus’ ministry (the middle of the floor is glass so you can look down on the house.  It was also beautiful that as the Gospel was being proclaimed, I looked behind the priest and saw the words written on the wall in Latin.  The other attraction there is a large 4^th century synagogue which was probably built directly over a 1^st century synagogue mentioned in the Gospel (among other things, the centurion is said to have paid to have it built, accounting perhaps for its large size for a small fishing community).  What exactly is there is not known, since they do not want to destroy what is visible to find what is beneath.

Peter's House

Inside Church (Gospel Verse On Wall Behind Altar)

View of Synagogue from Church

Next door is the Greek Orthodox Church, which admittedly is much more beautiful.  It is completely covered in amazing icons.  There also was a monk there selling numerous icons for very inexpensive prices (half the price or better than in Jerusalem).  I was trying not to buy anything more on my trip for lack of packing space, but I could not pass up a beautiful Madonna and Child with silver plating for only $13.  It was also amusing that my change came in $2 bills.  When I chuckled, the monk said, “those are unusual in America?  We like them very much here.”  After looking around the church, I made my way down to the shoreline and touched the Sea of Galilee.  Overall, it was a beautiful, peaceful site (many peacocks and chickens running around), one of my favorite in Israel so far.

Greek Orthodox Church

One of the Peacocks Strutting His Stuff (He Wouldn't Turn Around)

We were supposed to stop at the Bethsaida Overlook after this, but we were a bit turned around, missed the turn, and instead moved on to Kursi.  This is believed to be the sight of Legion being sent into the swine.  Isn’t there something unusual about that?  Pigs in Israel?  Well it makes sense when you know it was on the other side of the Jordan River, i.e. Gentile land.  There is not much to see there, other than the ruins of a Byzantine Church and some nice floral trees.

This trees are all over the place but I don't know what they are

We had one more stop, and we decided to get it in before lunch in order to try and avoid the worst heat of the day.  So, we made our way to Hippos, one of the Decapolis (10 Roman cities).  This is high up in the Golan Heights, probably the only one of the ten left remaining.  It was even more difficult to find (and the source of much driving frustration) as there are no signs for it.  Once we finally found the road, there were large Do Not Enter signs on either side, so I hesitated to follow.  I was “convinced” when told, “don’t worry.  Just don’t veer off the road.  There are land mines.”  These apparently are mines left by Syria from one of the recent wars to secure the Golan Heights (still disputed).  Once we parked, it was another nice hike to the top.  I have to admit, what is left is impressive.  The Roman city was destroyed in the 8^th century by an earthquake, but you can still see many structures, the streets, and the forum.  Supposedly at one point there were 11 churches in this smallish town.  In one you can still see at least part of the brilliant mosaics.  The view is also nice, almost directly opposite Tiberias.

The colors popped when water was dropped on it

Main Roman Road

Forum

View from Hippos

And so we made our way back to Tiberias.  After some hunting, we found a pizza place near our hotel.  Surprise of the day: no meat on pizza in Israel (duh, you cannot mix dairy and meat).  Still it was pretty good.  Now I’m resting a bit before dinner and our first lecture on the Gospel of Matthew.