My Pilgrimage: June 20

Long story short: I really like Vienna so far.  I think I’m not an honorary Hapsburg.

It was an early day for me, because I wanted to get to the Schönbrunn Palace, the huge palace of the von Hapsburgs just outside of Vienna.  But first, I have to mention the hotel breakfast buffet.  I have never seen anything like it!  Five long tables full of food, anything you can think of.  All kinds of cereals and fruits, yogurt, pre-made smoothies, omelet stations, meats, eggs, French toast, one side full of different pastries, juices, milk, etc.  I could have gone crazy, but I held back.  I grabbed a yogurt and smoothie (the yogurt was the most bland part of the breakfast, not really chilled), and of course a couple of pastries.  One was an amazing croissant filled with chocolate and drizzled with chocolate.  The other was a cake donut with chocolate glaze, it looked like the kind you can get in bags that taste nasty but this was fantastic.  I really wanted to eat more, but I also really wanted to not get sick.

It took about an hour to get to the palace, since I had to first figure out how to get tickets, then take a train to the city center, then get on the U-bahn to the palace, then actually walk to the palace.  Whew.  But believe me, it was worth it, and I knew it as soon as I saw it!  Wow!  The palace has something like 1400 rooms, but the tour takes you through about 40 of them.  Unfortunately you cannot take photos inside (which is why I bought a book about it afterwards), but I can say the real WOW was the main ballroom.  It’s hard to describe, but I imagine it’s something like the mirror room in Versailles (which I’m now extra bummed I didn’t see while in Paris). 

Now THAT'S Money!

My only picture inside, before the No Photo signs

After the tour, which took about an hour, I was well ahead of my schedule so I took my time walking through the gardens and the grounds.  Then I came up to the zoo, the oldest in the world.  I debated with myself for a few minutes.  In the end, my love of zoos, and especially historical ones, won over my concern for the cost.  I took about an hour to walk through most of it.  The highlight for me was the close up with hippos, but I also liked seeing the arctic wolves and lions.  Unfortunately, the tigers were nowhere to be found.  While walk through, I splurged for a strawberry gelato (a whole 1.50 Euros), which was good since it was starting to get hot.

There is glass there, but those kids were still too close

Hungry Hungry Hippo

King Penguin

A couple of arctic wolves

Check out that view!

I finished my walk through the grounds, including some great views of the palace with Vienna behind it, and made my way back to the metro.  I was still about an hour ahead of schedule, which worked out well.  I went directly to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, getting there around 11:30.  As I walked in, the guard said the nave was closed for Mass.  I asked what time Mass was; “12:00 everyday.”  I then asked if I could go to Mass, he said “surely” and I was in.  So that’s the trick to skip pay the 4 Euro to get into the main nave.  It was an interesting Mass, my first in German (add that to English, Spanish, French, Italian, Latin, and Arabic).  They had four hymns, including a post-Communion, but no Alleluia and no homily.  Oh, and they used the communion rail.  I was able to take a few pictures, then made my way out of the cathedral.  Before leaving, I wanted to see the treasury, but unfortunately it’s closed for renovations and will reopen “next week.”  Sigh.

A lot of construction inside and out made some pictures difficult

Vanquishing the Turk

So then I decided to wander through the streets of Vienna, take it in, and make my way down to the Opera.  Their tours were on the hour, so when I got there around 12:15, I had some time to spare.  What to do?  To the Socher Hotel for the famous Socher Torte!  It didn’t take too long to be seated, and I ordered green tea and a torte for my lunch.  What can I say?  It is very good (and hot tea on a day like today is a dumb idea).  The cake by itself would be a bit dry, but the apricot jam and whipped cream really work well with the chocolate.

Next up was the Opera tour.  To put it bluntly, it puts the Houston Symphony hall to shame.  The tour guide said we were lucky because today we were able to see the stage from the side of the stage, so a little of the backstage.  What’s amazing is that they run for 10 months (September through June), and each season they have about 50 operas or ballets.  At any one time there are usually five rotating, so every day they have to dismantle one set and put up the next.  They have to store the sets at a nearby museum and truck them in every day.  Seems like a bit much, but they make it work.  The building itself was pretty remarkable, especially the parts that served the bombing in 1945 (the main staircase and a couple of intermission salons, including the royal one).

The Royal Intermission room, spared from bombing

It was about 2:00 and I was starting to drag, but I still had one more big stop to go: the Imperial Apartments.  They were a bit difficult to find, but I finally did and started the tour through the “kitchen collection” as I’m calling it: silverware, serving sets, plates, etc. (the only part of the tour you could take pictures).  The first few rooms were cool, but it got old fast.  That part finally ended and I walked upstairs to the apartments.  Or at least that’s what I thought it was, but they started with a long tour of the life of “Sisi,” Queen Elizabeth, wife of Franz Joseph.  She had a “tragic” life, I suppose, marrying him reluctantly at the age of 15, hating the spotlight and doing everything to avoid it, having her only son commit suicide, and finally being assassinated at a young age by an Italian anarchist.  They really played her up as tragic, but I kind of thought she was a bit overdramatic.  That part of the tour could have lasted 30 minutes if I listened to the whole audio guide, but I wasn’t really interested in her life so I kind of fast forwarded until I got to what I want to see: the actual apartments.  While they were good, they were somewhat of a letdown after the Palace in the morning.  Or maybe I was just tired.

Royal Chamber Pots!

Just part of a HUGE centerpiece

After finishing that tour, I was pretty bushwhacked, but I didn’t want to call it a day at 4:30.  So, I decided to check out a couple more churches in the area.  First up was St. Michael’s, directly across the street from the apartments.  WOW!  This church is some kind of beautiful.  The sculptures behind the altar are breathtaking, and the eight (I think) side altars are pretty great too.  As slightly underwhelmed as I was by the cathedral, this blew me away.

Close up on Michael

15th Century Pieta

I then made my way up to St. Peter’s, only to find out they were about to have Mass.  No bother, I will try to return for Mass tomorrow (I noted the times) for a better look.  By that time I really was tired, not to mention hot and smelly, so I made my way back to the metro, train, and hotel.  I’m pretty happy with myself, after I was nervous this morning, that I navigated with no real problems both the transportation and the city.  I’m looking forward to another great day tomorrow!