Day 5: Sunday in Rome

Sunday, the Baptism of the Lord, began with a trip to the Pontifical North American College, where seminarians from the United States study in Rome.  We were able to get there early enough to have a holy hour before Mass with the community.  It was nice to be able to celebrate Mass with them.  Afterwards, I was able to catch up, a little bit, with some of my brothers from Madison.  We all trudged up to the top of the college and took group pictures with St. Peter’s behind us.

After this we were free for the rest of the day until this evening.  A couple of friends and I then went out to explore a few things.  First, we took a walk past St. Peter’s, which was crawling with people and security, to get to a street with some shops we wanted to visit.  Unfortunately, most of them were closed for Sunday, so we will have to return on a later date.  So we head back to the hotel, quickly changed, and went to find lunch.

Since it was close to the first place we wanted to visit, we stopped in for lunch at an Irish bar.  Apparently it was named the #1 Irish bar in the world.  The food was pretty good (BLT wrap for me) and the atmosphere seemed like it would be fun with a bunch of students in there.  It’s a major hang out, apparently, for NFL games.  (Speaking of, continuing my uninterest in the regular season, I have no idea and really don’t care what’s happening in the playoffs.  When does Spring Training start?)

After lunch, we walked across the street to Gesu Church.  This is the home of the Jesuits.  I have been here before, but it’s never old going to one of the most beautiful churches in the world.  It’s a masterpiece of Baroque art and architecture.  Along with the artwork, the highlight is the tomb of St. Ignatius Loyola and the right arm of St. Francis Xavier. 

Pictures really can't do it justice

Ignatius

Mother Church beating back the Protestants (love it)

Francis Xavier's right arm

We then hopped a cab over to the Capuchin Crypt, also known as the Bone Church.  After making our way through a museum of the history of the order (they’re an offshoot of the Franciscans), we made our way to the crypt itself.  (No photos!)  It was not what I expected.  I figured, as a crypt, it would be cave-like.  Instead, they were niches of plaster with the bones laid out in artistic ways.  There are a few theories on how they were laid out as they were, but it was done sometime in the 18^th century.  The famous sign at the begin says, in multiple languages, “What you are now we used to be; what we are now you will be…”  It’s maybe a little creepy, but really it’s a reminder of the swiftness of time and the hope of life after death.

And that was it for the afternoon.  We decided to head in early because it will be a late night tonight.  We will be meeting up with a couple of cardinals for a church tour and dinner.  More on this tomorrow (which will be a full day). 

Rome Pilgrimage Day 4: Subiaco

Another travel day for us.  We started with the Basilica of Mary of the Angels in lower Assisi.  This church is the inspiration for the city name Los Angeles.  Since it is Epiphany here in Italy, a major holiday, they were having Mass so we could not see everything.  The major attraction is a chapel built by St. Francis in the middle of the church.  We also walked by a rose garden where the plants do not have thorns (it’s a Francis story).  They also had a few halls full of Nativity Scenes from all over the world.  One from France was huge and especially nice.

This is part of the French scene

After this we were on our way to Subiaco, outside of Rome.  So our focus transferred from the 13^th century to the 5^th century and St. Benedict.  Subiaco is where he went to get away from Rome and started his first monastery.  Along the way we drove through some amazing Italian countryside.  It’s up in the Apennines, so close to the monastery we drove on steep mountain roads that were “two lanes” in name only.  Our bus driver was a miracle worker.

I could have taken thousands of pictures similar to this of the beautiful landscape

We actually saw two monasteries here.  The first was a bit bland, to be honest.  The coolest part was a 1000 year old bell tower.  Also, interestingly, some of the materials used to build this came from a villa that Emperor Nero had built (the ruins remain on the side of the road on the way to the monastery).

A cloister from the 17th century made to look like Renaissance

Medieval cloister

The chapel

The second monastery was further up and built into the mountain.  Actually, it was built over the site where Benedict lived in a cave for three years.  This was more beautiful, in my opinion, including many frescoes from many centuries ago.  Probably the most interesting for me was a Crucifixion scene painted in the 13^th century.  In it, curiously, you see no Roman soldiers.  Instead, they are replaced by Muslim soldiers.  Yes, this was painted during the Crusades.  After the tour, we were able to have Mass in one of the chapels there.  Quite the experience!  We stopped in the shop and, at the recommendation of our tour guide, I picked up some strawberry gummy candies and a chocolate bar with peanuts made by the monks.  Yummy!

Probably my favorite view, down the valley

Mr goat hanging out

Muslim soldiers on the bottom right

Location of Benedict's cave

Chapel where we had Mass

We finally made our way to the hotel in Rome before a late (for us) dinner.  Lots of good pasta today.  Tomorrow, we have a relatively free day in Rome.  Hoping to see some cool sites!

Rome Pilgrimage Day 3: Assisi

Today was our big day to tour Assisi.  As our tour guide said, if not for one man, there would not be much to see here!  But really, it’s a nice Medieval town that has remained relatively “pure”.

We started at the Basilica of St. Clare.  (Many of the places we cannot take pictures, but I snuck a few in here).  We first went to a quiet chapel with the original crucifix from San Damiano (we would be there later).  It was there that Francis was called by God to rebuild the church.  Then, we walked down into the crypt to see venerate the body of St. Clare.  They also had a number of artifacts, including tunics worn by both Francis and Clare, some of her hair, and a breviary of Francis.  After this, we had Mass in the chapel of St. Agnes, Clare’s sister.  This was especially amazing for me since Agnes is my mom’s Confirmation name.

Unfortunately the valley was cloudy so it was hard to get a good picture

The original San Damiano crucifix

St. Clare

St. Agnes Chapel

After Mass we walked down to the Basilica of St. Francis. It is massive (no photos).  The upstairs church includes “the beginning of Italian art,” frescoes painted by Giotto (first Renaissance painter) detailing the lift of Francis.  This includes, as our tour guide said, the first truly realistic landscape (the center of Assisi).  The lower church is also beautiful, and includes the entrance to the crypt of St. Francis and some of his companions.

Town square, this facade is a pagan temple (for Minerva I believe) from the 1st century!

St. Francis Basilica (that's the nativity scene in the grass)

When we walked from the upper church to the lower church, the bells started ringing at noon

At this point, we were free to roam around the city for a few hours.  Instead of taking in the city, I went with a smaller group on a trek up to the hermitage (Eremo delle Carceri) where Francis and others would go to get away from everything.  I was told it was a 5k hike.  I figured that’s not too bad.  I was wrong.  There were two things going against me.  First: I tried to eat lunch (a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich) along the way.  Second: I got very overheated.  Oh, and the walk was up a steep incline the whole way.  I made it about half way before I couldn’t walk anymore (besides wobbly legs, I was getting nauseous from the food).  I and two other kind soles walked back and took a taxi up to the top (the cab driver first joked and said we should walk up there like Francis would.  Did I mention we’re all wearing collars?  Lazy priests.)  The hermitage itself was very peaceful with beautiful vistas.  I could see how Francis would be so “in-tune” with nature.

One of many beautiful views from the hermitage, unfortunately spoiled by me

After this we met up with the group and went to San Damiano.  So again this was the site where St. Francis first “heard the call” and later was where the Poor Clares lived.  It was very nice there, and quite small.  Here we were able to see the chapel, their refectory, their dormitory, and a few other rooms.  Again, no photos.  After that, we were free until dinner.  Overall, it was a beautiful but tiring day.

San Damiano (note the bell between the buildings)

St. Clare's sleeping area

That church we will visit tomorrow, and is the inspiration for the name Los Angeles