Rome Pilgrimage Day 4: Subiaco

Another travel day for us.  We started with the Basilica of Mary of the Angels in lower Assisi.  This church is the inspiration for the city name Los Angeles.  Since it is Epiphany here in Italy, a major holiday, they were having Mass so we could not see everything.  The major attraction is a chapel built by St. Francis in the middle of the church.  We also walked by a rose garden where the plants do not have thorns (it’s a Francis story).  They also had a few halls full of Nativity Scenes from all over the world.  One from France was huge and especially nice.

This is part of the French scene

After this we were on our way to Subiaco, outside of Rome.  So our focus transferred from the 13^th century to the 5^th century and St. Benedict.  Subiaco is where he went to get away from Rome and started his first monastery.  Along the way we drove through some amazing Italian countryside.  It’s up in the Apennines, so close to the monastery we drove on steep mountain roads that were “two lanes” in name only.  Our bus driver was a miracle worker.

I could have taken thousands of pictures similar to this of the beautiful landscape

We actually saw two monasteries here.  The first was a bit bland, to be honest.  The coolest part was a 1000 year old bell tower.  Also, interestingly, some of the materials used to build this came from a villa that Emperor Nero had built (the ruins remain on the side of the road on the way to the monastery).

A cloister from the 17th century made to look like Renaissance

Medieval cloister

The chapel

The second monastery was further up and built into the mountain.  Actually, it was built over the site where Benedict lived in a cave for three years.  This was more beautiful, in my opinion, including many frescoes from many centuries ago.  Probably the most interesting for me was a Crucifixion scene painted in the 13^th century.  In it, curiously, you see no Roman soldiers.  Instead, they are replaced by Muslim soldiers.  Yes, this was painted during the Crusades.  After the tour, we were able to have Mass in one of the chapels there.  Quite the experience!  We stopped in the shop and, at the recommendation of our tour guide, I picked up some strawberry gummy candies and a chocolate bar with peanuts made by the monks.  Yummy!

Probably my favorite view, down the valley

Mr goat hanging out

Muslim soldiers on the bottom right

Location of Benedict's cave

Chapel where we had Mass

We finally made our way to the hotel in Rome before a late (for us) dinner.  Lots of good pasta today.  Tomorrow, we have a relatively free day in Rome.  Hoping to see some cool sites!

Rome Pilgrimage Day 3: Assisi

Today was our big day to tour Assisi.  As our tour guide said, if not for one man, there would not be much to see here!  But really, it’s a nice Medieval town that has remained relatively “pure”.

We started at the Basilica of St. Clare.  (Many of the places we cannot take pictures, but I snuck a few in here).  We first went to a quiet chapel with the original crucifix from San Damiano (we would be there later).  It was there that Francis was called by God to rebuild the church.  Then, we walked down into the crypt to see venerate the body of St. Clare.  They also had a number of artifacts, including tunics worn by both Francis and Clare, some of her hair, and a breviary of Francis.  After this, we had Mass in the chapel of St. Agnes, Clare’s sister.  This was especially amazing for me since Agnes is my mom’s Confirmation name.

Unfortunately the valley was cloudy so it was hard to get a good picture

The original San Damiano crucifix

St. Clare

St. Agnes Chapel

After Mass we walked down to the Basilica of St. Francis. It is massive (no photos).  The upstairs church includes “the beginning of Italian art,” frescoes painted by Giotto (first Renaissance painter) detailing the lift of Francis.  This includes, as our tour guide said, the first truly realistic landscape (the center of Assisi).  The lower church is also beautiful, and includes the entrance to the crypt of St. Francis and some of his companions.

Town square, this facade is a pagan temple (for Minerva I believe) from the 1st century!

St. Francis Basilica (that's the nativity scene in the grass)

When we walked from the upper church to the lower church, the bells started ringing at noon

At this point, we were free to roam around the city for a few hours.  Instead of taking in the city, I went with a smaller group on a trek up to the hermitage (Eremo delle Carceri) where Francis and others would go to get away from everything.  I was told it was a 5k hike.  I figured that’s not too bad.  I was wrong.  There were two things going against me.  First: I tried to eat lunch (a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich) along the way.  Second: I got very overheated.  Oh, and the walk was up a steep incline the whole way.  I made it about half way before I couldn’t walk anymore (besides wobbly legs, I was getting nauseous from the food).  I and two other kind soles walked back and took a taxi up to the top (the cab driver first joked and said we should walk up there like Francis would.  Did I mention we’re all wearing collars?  Lazy priests.)  The hermitage itself was very peaceful with beautiful vistas.  I could see how Francis would be so “in-tune” with nature.

One of many beautiful views from the hermitage, unfortunately spoiled by me

After this we met up with the group and went to San Damiano.  So again this was the site where St. Francis first “heard the call” and later was where the Poor Clares lived.  It was very nice there, and quite small.  Here we were able to see the chapel, their refectory, their dormitory, and a few other rooms.  Again, no photos.  After that, we were free until dinner.  Overall, it was a beautiful but tiring day.

San Damiano (note the bell between the buildings)

St. Clare's sleeping area

That church we will visit tomorrow, and is the inspiration for the name Los Angeles

Rome Pilgrimage Day 1/2: Travel and Orvieto

Travel day(s)!

This is one of my many paradoxes.  I love traveling, but I hate traveling.  By that I mean, I love exploring new places.  But I hate the process of getting there.  In particular, I am not a big fan of flying, which is somewhat ironic given my graduate studies.  So, as usual, I was a nervous wreck last night and this morning, barely getting any sleep.  I think part of the problem is that I have a strong strand of the pioneer gene, or whatever they call it.  National Geographic did an article on this.  Some people are hard-wired to explore new things.  This is what has helped humans advance so far.  At the same time, I am a home-body.  So while I like to experience new things, I do not like doing new things.  Make sense?  No, of course not.  It’s similar to how I love going to baseball games, but I also hate it because of the big groups of people.  So every time I go to a game, I am an amazing mixture before going to it of wanting to for the game but dreading the crowds.  Baseball games and travel: I both want to and don’t.

We had early Mass, 5:00, and left the seminary at 6:00.  Of course we are only a few minutes away from the airport, so I was through security and everything by about 6:40.  This for a 9:40 flight.  Lots of time to “bond” with my brother seminarians.  As expected, the flight to Detroit was quick and painless.  This lead to a somewhat lengthy layover in Detroit including lunch.

We got off without a hitch from Detroit.  I had upgraded to what I suppose is the equivalent of business class.  More leg room, free drinks.  I was only two rows from the main door.  I was also fortunate that there was no one sitting next to me, so I was not squished.  The only problem was, I could not sleep on the flight.  Just could not get comfortable.  So instead I read a little and watched some movies.  I started with Wind River, which is intense.  Then I watched about half of Moana.  I only turned it off because I tried to sleep.  After I couldn’t sleep, I turned on a documentary called “Score” I have been wanting to watch about film music.  It was definitely good, though weird there was no mention of James Horner or John Newton Howard.  Oh well.

When we landed in Amsterdam, we only had about 45 minutes to run to the other side of the airport and make it through passport control.  That part was interesting.  When I got to the agent, he didn’t say a word.  I gave him my passport, he didn’t say a word, just flipped a couple pages, stamped it, and handed it back.  Thankfully, we all made it to the airplane in time.

It was under a two hour flight to Rome from there.  The most interesting part was coming in over Italy, being able to look down and see the coastline.  As we descended, I had a great view out the window of the Italian landscape and the Apennine Mountains in the distance.  Again, no major concerns.

Once we landed, we eventually were met up by our travel guide (our “Italian Mama”) and the bus.  It’s never fun to get off lengthy airplane rides for a lengthy bus ride, but alas it was about two more hours to Orvieto.  There we had some free time to walk around (there’s not much to see, or I was too tired to see anything).  I did find my way into a church dedicated to Sts. Andrew and Bartholomew.  Then it was time for lunch.  I had the local delicacy, roasted pork sandwich.  It was good, though the pork was cold.  Then more waiting outside in the cold (I stupidly left my jacket on the bus).  Finally, we started our tour of the tour of the Duomo.

From the bus, not the airplane, but you get the idea

Rose window with Agnus Dei

Sts. Andrew and Bartholomew Church

Their rose window from inside

Gensis

Old Testament

New Testament

Last Judgment

It is unusual, an Italian Gothic church.  It was built in commemoration of a Eucharistic miracle.  In the 13^th century, a priest had doubts during Mass.  During the consecration, the host bled on the corporal.  Since the pope was nearby, a commission quickly began and proved authenticity.  Today, the corporal is in the Duomo, though it is only exposed a few days a year to preserve it.

The outside is beautiful, and one can easily see the church is dedicated to Mary.  I found especially interesting pieces at the bottom of the spires depicting, in order, Genesis, the Old Testament, the New Testament, and the Last Judgment.  Inside it is rather empty, but the highlights are the side altars.  On one side is a side altar covered in frescoes from the Renaissance (partly done by Fra Angelico).  On the other side is the chapel of the corporal.  When we entered the Duomo, we were told that, for whatever reason, it was actually exposed today.  What a treat!  And that was where we were having Mass (and I was the acolyte!)  It was truly a blessing. 

Eucharistic Miracle Chapel

They love their Christmas trees (always outside) and Nativity Scenes (always inside)

After Mass, we were all tired and made our way back to the bus.  Next up was another two hour ride to our hotel in Assisi.  Despite our “Mama” telling us not to sleep until after dinner, I think most of us could not help it.  Dinner was good, a buffet at the hotel.  Now, I am ready for sleep.

Tomorrow: touring Assisi.